Questions tagged [waves]

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Using radar to measure ocean waves along the shoreline

What radar technology would be best to measure the attributes of ocean waves near (under 2k distance) the shoreline?
Beach Bum's user avatar
  • 141
2 votes
0 answers
56 views

Sea waves with perpendicular discontinuity

This is a sea/ocean wave image which can be found in several places on the internet. I cannot find its origin and any image search did not yield conclusive results. It may even be a render. Question: ...
scriptfoo's user avatar
  • 129
1 vote
1 answer
52 views

What are the inhibiting factors that are hindering ocean wave-based electricity generation?

Considering the amount of available energy there is for the conversion to electricity (ocean waves being endless) I would imagine more attention to this approach by all energy based-companies, as well ...
John Sorenson's user avatar
3 votes
0 answers
45 views

Geostrophic adjustment with shallow water equations

The linearized f-plane shallow water equations are: du'/dt - fv' = -g(d eta'/dx) dv'/dt + fu' = -g(d eta'/dy) (d eta'/dt) + H((du'/dx)+(dv'/dy)) = 0 where g is ...
Maggie Bradley's user avatar
6 votes
0 answers
57 views

Beaufort wind force measure

Beaufort scale relates wind speed and wave height of the ocean surface. Does the wave height in the scale refer to significant wave height or mean wave height?
M.Shanmuga sundari's user avatar
3 votes
0 answers
40 views

Validation parameter of spectrum model

In Ocean spectrum modelling there are different modelling procedures are available such as Fung Lee model, JONSWAP model, Elfouhaily model, WWIII model and SWAN model. Among those models based on ...
M.Shanmuga sundari's user avatar
2 votes
0 answers
37 views

Water rushing out to meet wave term

Is there a word for the phenomenon of water seeming to rush out to meet an oncoming wave? Perhaps it's more of a physics terminology question?
JB0x2D1's user avatar
  • 121
3 votes
1 answer
137 views

Are there any types of winds or waves that are produced just by Earth's rotation?

Are there any types of wind or waves caused and produced only and exclusively by Earth's rotation? Not influenced by Earth rotation, but produced solely by it? In the case of waves, are Rossby waves 1 ...
vengaq's user avatar
  • 191
4 votes
0 answers
101 views

Book recommendation on waves

I am looking for a book about waves in the context of Earth Science, the two main topics I have in mind are ocean waves and seismic waves. Explanations in a book like Understanding earth1 is too ...
Alessandro Jacopson's user avatar
1 vote
0 answers
173 views

Atmospheric gravity waves or cumulus cloud street?

I observed these clouds today (november 12, Belgium) and I was wondering if they could be caused by atmospheric gravity waves. How would you spot the difference between gravity waves and a cloud ...
theWrongAlice's user avatar
1 vote
0 answers
56 views

What are the boundary conditions for Navier's Equations of motion in seismic?

Navier's equations of motion in seismic have 3 solutions, according to how it is resolved (boundary conditions): for Vp (compression waves) for Vs (shear waves) for Vr (Rayleigh waves) I know the ...
JCV's user avatar
  • 111
6 votes
2 answers
342 views

Wave height data for Indian east coast

For my project, I am looking for wave height information. My study area is the Odisha coast of the Bay of Bengal. What I have gathered from various research papers is that significant wave height is ...
Badal's user avatar
  • 113
3 votes
1 answer
87 views

The effect of enclosed channels and breakwaters on wave height and velocity

Some context: I row every morning, and due to my rowing club's proximity to a large lake, it is often very windy and rough (which builds character, according to the coaches). I noticed that as we row ...
zachery moïse's user avatar
4 votes
1 answer
57 views

Is there any information on the height of waves near New Zealand resulting from today's M 8.1 Kermadec Islands earthquake?

The video in this tweet shows the small wave produced at Tokomaru Bay in New Zealand following the M 8.1 - Kermadec Islands, New Zealand 2021-03-04 19:28:31 (UTC) event. These are so far the only ...
uhoh's user avatar
  • 6,994
1 vote
0 answers
180 views

Horizontal slowness in seismology

I am working on a seismology assignment and it starts with the fundamentals of seismology such as the wave equation, the slowness... such as the question below: write an equation describing the ...
Rim Sleimi's user avatar
3 votes
1 answer
100 views

Are ocean waves diminished, enhanced or unaffected by underwater obstacles

Suppose you have a wave heading towards the beach, and under the water the surface rises suddenly then drops again back to the typical average slope of the coastline, does this have a muting affect on ...
WDUK's user avatar
  • 133
1 vote
0 answers
29 views

SWAN doesn't run [duplicate]

I'm Ocean Engineering Master Student. I'm not an expert in SWAN. I have some problem with it. Previously my result like rotated so I take another option to make grids using GridBuilder but SWAN doesn'...
rahmadimi trulyan's user avatar
1 vote
0 answers
99 views

SWAN WAVE model: Strange result

I'm Ocean Engineering Master Student. I have some problems with my research. When I plot the result it is rotated. The color blue one is land. This my script, what should I do to fix the problem? <...
rahmadimi trulyan's user avatar
4 votes
0 answers
55 views

Tidal current energy chart - Messina Strait

I am a student in industrial engineering, and I am doing a business plan related to exploiting Messina Strait current for electrical energy. Does anyone have a tidal stream chart (either with velocity ...
Domenico Bagnato's user avatar
1 vote
1 answer
114 views

What would be the phase shift and polarity of a seismic wave upon reflection

What would be the phase shift and polarity of a seismic wave a) when it hit the free surface b)when the free surface reflection goes down and hit a reflector and returned to the receiver placed on the ...
simond's user avatar
  • 111
2 votes
1 answer
78 views

What are good oceanographic journals

I am a developer with a oceanographic side project. I did some ML on wave & tide data and thought of publishing it in a paper. What are some good journals to send it to? Any recommendations? ...
El Dude's user avatar
  • 151
4 votes
1 answer
632 views

How can oceanic Rossby waves move from East to West?

I can find several examples of Rossby waves, mainly atmospheric, moving towards East. Is it possible that they also move towards West?
ouranos's user avatar
  • 607
14 votes
4 answers
6k views

Why are there waves in seas towards shore - even in night?

Waves are mostly caused by Friction of wind on surface of water. Wind blows from sea to land in day and land to sea in night due to pressure and temperature difference. So it is intuitive why there ...
Arun S R's user avatar
  • 345
3 votes
1 answer
235 views

SWAN wave model: HSIG is strangely low

I have a question about SWAN wave model, I tried to ask it at the SWAN mailing list, but with no luck, so I'm asking here. First of all I have to admit I'm not a professional SWAN user. All the ...
Xanx's user avatar
  • 83
1 vote
1 answer
369 views

Highest land altitude a tsunami has ever reached (record)

When a tsunami gets into the coast we are approximately at 0 meters above average sea level (AASL). And then it starts ascending in the uphill land... 1m AASL... 2,3... 5,10 m AASL etc. That is ...
nwo's user avatar
  • 111
14 votes
1 answer
6k views

If a very huge Earthquake occured anywhere on Earth could waves emerge to come together again on the opposite side?

Suppose that a super-powerful earthquake occurred anywhere on Earth, say one with the value 10 on Richter's scale. The quake can have any value but as can be read in a comment below the highest value ...
Deschele Schilder's user avatar
3 votes
1 answer
2k views

Why do P waves have a higher velocity in the lower mantle than in the core even though the core has a much higher density?

I've just started teaching 9th grade Earth science and my students and I have noticed something about P and S wave depth vs velocity graphs. In the typical graph, eg: https://www.researchgate.net/...
Greg Walsh's user avatar
2 votes
1 answer
78 views

What's really happening with "stormquakes"?

The PBS Newshour article Scientists discover big storms can create ‘stormquakes’ says: A stormquake is more an oddity than something that can hurt you, because no one is standing on the sea floor ...
uhoh's user avatar
  • 6,994
1 vote
0 answers
103 views

Complex Empirical Orthogonal Function analysis on Propagating wave

Since Complex EOF (CEOF) is doing hilbert transform before general EOF, we can get four outputs in each mode. Magnitude spatial pattern Magnitude time series Phase spatial pattern Phase time series ...
Yui's user avatar
  • 11
1 vote
1 answer
188 views

wave speed is smaller than both horizontal wave speed and vertical wave speed?

I am new to GIS and just get the idea of slowness. I can understand why people need the slowness in GIS rather than just the reciprocal of velocity. However, I feel the definition of slowness is weird ...
Silentmovie's user avatar
1 vote
2 answers
595 views

Sea cave vs Sea arch

How do you distinguish sea cave from sea arch? If I want to classify a crack of sea cliff as sea cave, has it to have a dead end? Would you call a geological formation as a sea cave even a kayak can ...
David's user avatar
  • 75
1 vote
1 answer
150 views

reverse time migration for wave equation PDE using SBP-SAT

I'm stuck implementing a reverse time migration technique, the PDE(partial differential equation) being implemented is an acoustic wave equation, The numerical method being used is a FD(finite ...
Karim Morad's user avatar
6 votes
1 answer
755 views

How does multiple layer seismic reflection work? How do we distinguish arrivals from different layers and their velocities?

Whenever we are investigating multiple layer interfaces in a seismic reflection survey the root-mean-squared velocity is often employed to deduce travel time to a certain n-th layer and also to deduce ...
MattGeo's user avatar
  • 303
3 votes
2 answers
1k views

Travel Times for Seismic Wave Types - Why reflected t-x plot curves

I do not understand how the reflected wave in a seismic survey has a steepening slope (slows down) Please bear with me as I lay out my thoughts because I feel like I can grasp all of this except this ...
MattGeo's user avatar
  • 303
1 vote
1 answer
115 views

Where can I find wave height/period, current velocity and wind speed/direction data at the Qiangzhou strait in China?

I'm looking for time series of wave height/ period, velocity currents and wind speed/direction specifically for the Qiangzhou strait in China. Global data sets could also work.
Gina Torres's user avatar
5 votes
1 answer
172 views

Do sound waves from volcanic eruptions travel around the world?

Do sound waves from volcanic eruptions travel around the world? I recently read about the Krakatoa eruption and how sound waves from that eruption traveled around the globe 4 times and were detected ...
Sir Spam's user avatar
1 vote
1 answer
66 views

How the stepness can be computed at NDBC from site with only dominant wave data and windwave data

Hi guys I have an small question here. At the NDBC website they have at most of the buoys the steepness of the sea at that time and date: http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.php?station=46012 ...
manelcamacho's user avatar
2 votes
1 answer
78 views

How is wind made [duplicate]

Everyone surely enjoys waves in the beach, but one question that has always been hovering around my head was about the wnd. I have always been told that waves are formed by wind and all, but then ...
Sabrina Tariq's user avatar
4 votes
0 answers
129 views

Presence of cross stratified conglomerates in fan deltas

Why are cross stratified conglomerates found in deposits of fan deltas? I know that fan deltas are alluvial fans that deposit directly into the sea, hence they are poorly sorted.But could not ...
Faraz Gerrard Jamal's user avatar
7 votes
2 answers
840 views

How are chenier ridges and strand plains formed at wave dominated coastlines?

In the attached image, we can see chenier ridges and strand plains. How are they formed and what is the involvement of rip and longshore currents in their formation?
Faraz Gerrard Jamal's user avatar
5 votes
1 answer
541 views

Why does wind blowing against a strong current create way bigger waves?

It's a well known fact that wind will cause very big waves if blowing against a strong current, for example in the gulf stream off the US coast, or in the bay of San Francisco with a very strong (5 ...
Brann's user avatar
  • 297
1 vote
0 answers
27 views

Looking at the brightest parts of the image how would one find the blackbody curve and wavelength maximum using a radiance calculator?

Look at the brightest parts of the photo and use a radiance calculator to find the blackbody radiation curve (show the plot of the curve) and the wavelength of maximum emission. How do ...
yre's user avatar
  • 485
1 vote
1 answer
240 views

Searching for common wave vocabulary

What do you call the leading waves and activity leading before a large wave?
J-Dizzle's user avatar
  • 151
3 votes
1 answer
174 views

Wavewatch III data

I need to simulate some ocean data on the south coast of France, near to Marseilles. Ideally I am looking for parameters such as wind direction, wind speed, significant wave height, peak wave period ...
RH_data_maths's user avatar
4 votes
1 answer
183 views

How does wind cause large waves?

I was just wondering about the large waves associated with storms. It seems a little counter-intuitive that large masses of water can be put into motion by moving air (which is much lighter than water)...
adam.baker's user avatar
5 votes
1 answer
660 views

Depth of the wind-induced currents and the shoreline

In the open sea the speed of the current in the developed sea can be estimated as 3% the wind velocity at 10 meters. Why is ocean surface velocity around 3% of wind velocity? Is there a similar ...
George Polevoy's user avatar
6 votes
2 answers
108 views

ERA Interim problem with Waves

Has anyone had a problem with significant wave height (swh) and mean wave period (mwp) from ERA-Interim not matching very well with either a time series of measurements or a different model? Or does ...
vmmmb45's user avatar
  • 63
5 votes
1 answer
411 views

What might cause these "wave clouds" near the horizon? Could it be gravity waves?

I found this image on a website - returned as a HTTP error 404 'not found'. But the clouds look strangely repetitive. At first I thought the image had been "photoshopped", but as @gerrit pointed out ...
uhoh's user avatar
  • 6,994
8 votes
1 answer
184 views

How much water does a wave transport into a sea cave?

How much water is transported (volume) as a wave travels into a sea cave? The wave has a height of 1 m and a period of 12 seconds. The average water depth at the cave mouth it 5 m and the width is 15 ...
surfer's user avatar
  • 81
5 votes
1 answer
999 views

The mean direction of waves in a directional distribution

When modelling ocean waves, a directional distribution $D_f(\theta)$ is used together with a frequency spectrum $S(f)$ to describe the energy of waves at a particular frequency $f$ and angle $\theta$. ...
RH_data_maths's user avatar