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5
votes
1
answer
1k
views
The mean direction of waves in a directional distribution
When modelling ocean waves, a directional distribution $D_f(\theta)$ is used together with a frequency spectrum $S(f)$ to describe the energy of waves at a particular frequency $f$ and angle $\theta$. …
7
votes
1
answer
2k
views
Units of wave spectrum
In ocean spectra such as the Pierson Moskowitz or the JONSWAP models, the units of $S(\omega)$ are $m^2/(rad/s)$ (or whatever unit of measurement you are working in). Where does the $m^2$ come from an …
3
votes
1
answer
188
views
Wavewatch III data
I have been looking at the WW3 data on http://polar.ncep.noaa.gov/waves/download.shtml but the resolution for this area is only 0.5 degrees. …