13
votes
Accepted
Why can't wave models model storm surge?
Yes. Spectral wave models cannot model storm surge because the wave energy balance equation that they integrate does not describe the physical processes associated with storm surge.
Wave models solve ...
- 4,973
11
votes
Accepted
Why would a Martian tsunami travel at only 200 km/hour, four times slower than on Earth?
The linked paper does numerical modelling of a hypothetical tsunami and predicts speeds between 60 m/s (at its point of origin) and 30 m/s (nearer to shore). We can try a back-of-an-envelope ...
- 5,820
10
votes
What are the challenges in predicting lithology directly from acoustic impedance?
Yes, lithology interpretation/classification directly from seismic inversion products is something people do. I've seen it work very well in oil and gas exploration and development of fields.
I ...
- 1,044
8
votes
Accepted
What wind forecast datasets are available for forcing a wave forecast model?
Yes, the GFS model is a global model. The data is released in the public domain, so you can use it for free for any lawful purpose. See complete terms of use here. You can get the data here.
- 8,684
5
votes
Accepted
SWAN wave model: HSIG is strangely low
You need to use the following line in your model setup:
COORDINATES SPHERICAL
Otherwise SWAN will try to calculate wave properties on a curvilinear grid with ...
- 561
4
votes
Accepted
The significance of peak period in surface wave models
The peak period is only one of multiple parameters that is used to describe the spectral shape of ocean waves. Most commonly used parameters are significant wave height, mean period, and dominant (...
- 4,973
4
votes
Why does wind blowing against a strong current create way bigger waves?
There are two physical processes at play here:
Wind speed relative to the ocean surface
Wave focusing and blocking in opposing current
Wind speed relative to the ocean surface
As you describe in ...
- 4,973
3
votes
Accepted
Any site for monitoring equatorial oceanic waves?
There are a few sea surface height datasets available on PO.DAAC (the Physical Oceanography Distributed Active Archive Center), but this one seems to be (near-)real-time and global: the SARAL Near-...
- 5,338
3
votes
What are good oceanographic journals
When searching for a place to publish Earth Science stuff, have a look at the two big continental scientific societies: the American Geophysical Union (AGU) and the European Geosciences Union (EGU). ...
- 7,334
2
votes
Staggered Grid finite difference implementation for modelling the elastic wave equation in 2D?
Here is a simple MATLAB script for a simple FD implementation (2nd order accurate in space and time) for the acoustic wave equation, which is identical to Virieux (1986) under the assumption of $\mu=0$...
- 1,979
2
votes
How do we convert the seismic trace wavelet to zero phase which is in mixed phase?
It depends on what your starting information about your seismic data is. For example, if you know that your data contains an impulsive (minimum phase) source wavelet (i.e. the acquisition source was ...
- 947
2
votes
The significance of peak period in surface wave models
The peak period is also important in evaluating the interaction of waves and human-built structures such as drilling platforms. If the frequencies of resonance of a drilling platform coincide with the ...
- 2,018
1
vote
Accepted
How would waves (in a fluid) behave without intermolecular attraction?
There are different factors that make water a media for waves. For transversal waves the viscosity and cohesion of molecules are essential. Even if the water is assumed not to evaporate. Try to ...
- 164
1
vote
At the ocean surface, why do large amplitude waves travel faster than small amplitude waves?
Higher amplitude waves, on water, are caused by larger disturbances and longer durations of energy input, in the form of wind, than smaller ones. Quite simply in order to build a big ocean wave you ...
- 4,260
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