New answers tagged wind
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I am not a wave expert, but i thought waves were caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun ? As the ocean is pulled up and down every night and the bulge from the pull being dragged across the ocean and then released sets the waves in motion and the reason they always go towards the shore is because the mass of the ocean and its shape. Once the ...
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Wind blows from sea to land in day and land to sea in night due to pressure and temperature difference.
Not so much. This is common in the Mediterranean in summer, for example, where the area sits under a stable area of high pressure and there is little wind caused by the weather system. Go to the Med in winter though, and you'll find the weather systems ...
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I'm making my comment an answer.
Waves are ubiquitous, except on land ;-). Waves in the open sea are a mix — a superposition — of waves in different directions.1 The dominating direction of large waves is, after a while, the wind direction; but that's not absolute. You have some omnidirectional background "noise" of chaotic movement as well as ...
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Ocean waves (and also in mediterranean type seas and larger lakes, but on a smaller scale) are generated by two processes:
locally generated waves ("wind waves"), which follow the direction of the wind;
waves generated further out in the sea (i.e. "swell waves"), which do not necessarily follow the direction of the wind.
During the night, you are probably ...
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You need to use the following line in your model setup:
COORDINATES SPHERICAL
Otherwise SWAN will try to calculate wave properties on a curvilinear grid with coordinates provided in meters. In your present case, the computational area is 0.47 m x 0.24 m instead of degrees longitude and latitude.
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